Okay, here are the directions for making the cage extensions. It isn't
difficult, all you need are a few tools and the right materials - all should be
available at your local hardware store.
Note that this cage was designed to fit my own living room, so you will probably
want to modify the design to fit your specifications.
1 pair snub-nosed wire cutters to trim sharp edges
1 pair pliers to bend wire
1 pair needle nosed pliers to bend sharp wire ends (optional)
1 pair kitchen scissors to cut aluminum siding
1 pair Have-a-Heart cage clamp pliers
1 bag Have-a-Heart cage clamps
1 hacksaw to cut the gutter if necessary
The Gutter Run
MATERIALS for the gutter
1/2 inch x 1/2 inch hardware cloth
1 ten-foot plastic gutter with plastic ridges running along the inside
edges.
2 plastic gutter ends
DIRECTIONS for the gutter
General idea: this design gives you a covered run for your rats. The gutter is
roofed by an arch of hardware cloth running its entire length. My rats love it
-- they gallop up and down its length, and sleep regularly at either end.
Clean and disinfect the gutter.
Measure the place you want to put the gutter, and cut a piece off the end of
the gutter to make it fit. My space was about 5 inches too narrow.
For the roof: Cut long rectangles of hardware cloth that are exactly 7
inches wide. It doesn't matter how long they are -- my pieces are between two
and three feet long -- as long as the total length of all your pieces is the
same as the length of the gutter. Trim all the sharp points using snub nosed
pliers.
Take each piece of hardware cloth and bend it gently along its length.
Don't make a sharp corner, just a gentle arc.
This is the tough part (it takes some strength). The idea here is to bend
the hardware cloth so that the both long edges fit into the grooves running
along the inside of the gutter. The hardware cloth wants to be straight and
flat, it will resist being curved like this, so the edges will press really hard
against the gutter. This mechanical pressure will keep the roof in place -- you
don't need any other fasteners. It is stiff enough that the rats can't push it
out. This also means that the gutter is really easy to get in to -- you just
hook your fingers through the wire, give it a sharp tug, and the panel comes
off.
Place the other panels. You can slide them along the gutter to make
everything fit.
To stop up the ends: Place the plastic gutter ends on either end of the
gutter. Cut a half-circle of hardware cloth to fit the open "window"
between the top of the gutter end and the hardware cloth. Wire it in place.
I had a 5 inch piece of gutter left over, so I flipped it over and placed it
over one end to make a solid roof that fits fairly snugly over the wire. The
rats love this little "hidey hole" and sleep there a lot.
Ideas for attaching the gutter to other parts of the cage. As it is, the
gutter is free-standing, a closed system. My gutter has two openings. The
easiest one is at one end. I just cut the last three inches of hardware cloth
off one roof-panel to make a hole, then slid the end of the climbing tower into
the hole so that it fit snugly. For the other opening, I shortened a middle
panel by 4 inches, making a 4 inch gap in the hardware cloth. I fit a ramp with
its own arching roof into the hole and fixed it there with a spring. The
intersection of the two roofs was quite exciting -- it gave me a whole new
respect for Roman architects. Contact me if you want specific details :)
The Climbing Tower
MATERIALS for the climbing tower
1/2 inch x 1/2 inch hardware cloth
1 roll aluminum flashing
1 spring
1 S-hook
wire
DIRECTIONS for the climbing tower
General idea: I found that my rats didn't really like climbing straight up or
down vertical sheets of wire. They can do it, but they look really nervous as
they go down head first. I'd be nervous too. My rats definitely prefer ramps
or steps.
I needed to get my rats to go straight up three vertical feet (from the back of
the couch to the top of a bookcase), and I didn't want to build a ramp which
would have blocked the picture above my couch. So I decided on stairs -- or
rather, a vertical series of alternating small shelves, set into a long
rectangular "box" of hardware cloth: like this:
I found with some experimenting and measuring that my adult female rats like
these shelves to be five inches above each other. Adult males may need the
shelves to be farther apart, and may in fact prefer a column that is bigger in
all dimensions.
Building the outside box. My outside box is 7.5 inches wide x 4 inches deep
x 34 inches tall. The "seam" runs up one of the back edges.
Cut a rectangle of hardware 27 x 34 inches. This piece will have two extra
inches -- you can fold these backwards (like a hem) to give the tower more
structural integrity. Remove all the sharp wire ends with snub nosed pliers.
Make the first 90 degree bend at 8.5 inches (remember the extra inch) to
make the back wall of the tower. Make the second after 4 more inches, the third
after 7.5 more inches. Fold the extra inch back along the outside of the tower
for strength.
Close the last corner along the fold with Have-A-Heart cage clips. You'll
end up with a rectangular box that looks like this:
Now, for the shelves. The general idea is to cut a bunch of little
shelves out of aluminum flashing, and fasten them inside the cage with wire.
Note: when I design shelves, I like them to have a 1/2 inch space between their
edges and the cage wall. This keeps feet and tails from getting caught. This
also means that the shelves have to be suspended somehow -- I use wire.
Finished dimensions of shelf: 3 x 4 inches. I always add 1/2 inch to the final
dimensions of the shelf so I can fold the edges under for structural stability.
To suspend the shelves, I sandwich wire between the top of the shelf and its
fold.
Cut a 4 x 5 piece of aluminum flashing. Remove a 1/2 x 1/2 inch square
from each corner:
Fold the two long flaps completely under:
Cut two seven inch lengths of wire. These pieces of wire will fit under
the short flaps of the shelf, and will attach the shelf to the cage. Fold the
two short flaps completely under, trapping a piece of wire under each flap.
Pinch the flaps down tight with pliers. You'll end up with something like
this:
Now you can attach the shelf to the inside of the tower. Push the shelf
inside, decide on a height, and twist the four wires around the hardware cloth
at the same height, making sure to adjust the shelf so that you leave a 1/2 inch
space between the shelf and the wall. The shelf will be suspended by the
wires.
Now repeat for all your shelves, placing them on alternating sides of the
tower as you go up. Separate them by a vertical distance of five inches.
I wanted a door in the middle of my column, so the shelf directly behind
the door could not have the same attachment points. I ran three wires through
the shelf, on both long edges and one short edge, and attached it as
follows:
To make the roof, cut a 9 x 6 rectangular piece of hardware cloth, cut
out a half inch square from each corner, fold the four edges down to 90 degrees,
and attach with wire ties or Have-a-Heart cage clips.
To make the door hole, cut a 5.5 x 5.5 inch rectangular hole in the front
of the tower, in front of the special shelf (see below). Trim the sharp wire
edges with snub nosed pliers. To make the doorframe even safer, cut long, thin
strips of aluminum flashing (5.5 x 1 inch), fold them down the middle
lengthwise, and clamp them around the doorframe with pliers.
For the door itself, cut a 10 x 10 inch piece of hardware cloth. Fold 1/2
inch completely over on two opposite sides -- the folded sides will be the top
and bottom of your door. Fold a 1.5 inch flap to 90 degrees on a third side --
this will be the free side of your door. This lip will reach around the edge of
the tower. The only unfolded edge left will be the hinge -- attach with
Have-a-Heart cage clips
Attach the unfolded edge of the door to the tower with Have-A-Heart cage
clips. Make sure the 90 degree folded edge can reach easily around the corner
of the tower (see below).
For the door fastener, attach the S-hook to one of the spring's ends with
pliers. Attach the other end of the spring to the middle of the free edge of
the door. To close the door, hook the S-hook onto the tower wall.
To attach the tower to other things, you can cut holes in its walls. I
have a hole at the top that connects to a secondary cage. At the bottom, my
tower rests on the gutter described above. I cut an arch out of the bottom of
the tower that corresponds to the gutter and its roof. In the back of the
tower, I cut a slit that goes over the gutter wall. This makes a snug
connection with the gutter. To close the rest of the bottom of the tower, I
attached a rectangle of hardware cloth with cage clips for security, then
covered it with aluminum flashing to protect the rats' feet. This makes a very
sturdy shelf. The lip of the shelf spills into the gutter to make that a secure
edge. The tower is not otherwise attached to the gutter -- when I need to it
simply lifts off.
This attachment point may be unique to my setup, so I won't give specific
instructions here.
Here is a drawing of the complete tower:
Copyright (c) 2000. Please do not redistribute without permission of the author.
